A certain online dictionary defines disorientation as the loss of proper bearings, or a state of mental confusion as to time, place, or identity. Salman Rushdie, in his astonishing novel “The Ground beneath Her Feet” describes it as ‘Loss of the East’. While most of India is closer to the equator than most of the US, many places in India are at longitudes 180 degrees away from locations in the US. Roughly speaking, if you’re in the US, then India is literally the far east; it’s as far east as you can go.
Traveling to India is a challenge. If you are in Los Angeles and ask how to get to India, the correct answer would be the wry “you can’t get there from here.” You have first to go somewhere else, and then go to India from there. In our case, somewhere else was New York, where we were to be joined by Flo’s sister Saali, who knows people in India, and who indeed was the driving force that got us to India at all. We owe her a mountain of gratitude.
So in Rushdie’s sense, we began in a state of disorientation, and then mother nature blinked, and the entire east coast of the US was covered in snow, including certain locations important for international travel. For example, airports. Our plans were thrown into disarray, our departure was delayed by a few days, and instead of a 15 hour direct flight from the east coast to Mumbai, we had first to go to Frankfurt. You can’t get there from here.

I’m far from the world’s most seasoned traveller, and by the time we were in this transit lounge in Frankfurt, I was exhausted. Flo seemed tired but nevertheless awake. Saali and I attempted to nap while waiting for the connecting flight. Still more than 8 hours to go.
Our original plan had us arriving at night, so we could go to sleep immediately and wake to a full day. Instead, we arrived in Mumbai just before dawn. My first impressions: heat, immigration & customs very crowded but crowds polite and orderly, and a peculiar smell of burnt dust in the air that Saali said was characteristic of Mumbai and made her happy. We lugged our baggage to the curb, where Saali recognized Mahavir, the driver dispatched to meet us. By the time we reached our accommodations, the eastern sky was full of light.
Our hosts while in India were Mr and Mrs S and their family, and it must be said that if we owe Saali a mountain, then to them we owe all the Himalayas. They have made Saali part of their family, and she is godmother to two of their grandchildren. Throughout our stay, they were the exemplars of hospitality. Originally they had planned to be at their country home in Amritsar around this time, but they changed their plans and stayed on in Mumbai in order to meet us when we arrived. Because our travel plans had been delayed by bad weather in the States, Mr S had to leave for Amritsar before we arrived, and it was Mrs S who was our host and guide for the first few days.
In Mumbai, they have a 3rd floor apartment overlooking the ocean and facing approximately west. There is not enough room to accommodate three adult guests, so Mrs S arranged with her upstairs neighbors, Mr and Mrs N, to provide us with a lovely private room, with our own bathroom and a view of the ocean.
When we arrived, Mrs S was about to take her morning constitutional, which consists of either a walk along the sea front or a walk around the racetrack, followed by tea with a group of old friends at RWITC, the Royal West Indian Turf Club. We were invited to come along, and were treated to what we thought was a delicious breakfast (only to learn that our actual breakfast was still to come) and pleasant conversation in the garden at the turf club.

According to Mrs S, this group meets here every morning before work, and consists of doctors, lawyers and people in business. They joked that during these meetings, the doctors would dispense legal advice, and the lawyers medical. Bottom right in the picture is Mrs S, with Saali’s face partly visible at the top left.
It was all very pleasant, with uniformed waiters, endless tea, melba toast, and samosas. Jockeys, owners, trainers milled around. We were quite close to the track, and from time to time a horse would gallop by in a training run. The weather was delightful, and it’s hard to think of a more pleasant way to greet the sun.
Above us, birds of various kinds circled. Some were Kites, and there were many Crows, abundant everywhere in India. They are beautiful black birds, with elegant grey necks, about the size of the ravens in California, with an inquisitive personality like the Magpies in Australia. Whenever I saw them, I smiled. They love to carry objects in their beaks, and can often be seen with bits of wire or other man made materials. Once in Delhi, I saw one carrying a plastic drink cup.
In India the cars are small and the drivers expert. We needed two cars to get the four of us back to the apartment. Saali was keen to catch up with Mrs S, so they took a taxi, while Flo and I were driven by Mr and Mrs A, a couple from the tea group, both doctors.

We arrived back at the apartment to be greeted by a table set with a full breakfast, dal, roti, yogurt, toast, tea, eggs. This was to set the tone for our entire trip, which developed into more or less continual feasting punctuated here and there by the occasional shopping or sightseeing trip just to maintain the illusion that we were tourists on vacation. But the feasting was central.
Saali had tried to warn us of the onslaught of eating we were about to experience, but in retrospect I think nothing could have prepared us. It was clear that Saali was keen for the shopping portion of our journey to get underway, so as soon as breakfast was complete, we set off into the wilds of Mumbai. Mahavir was our long suffering driver, and Mrs S our guide. Flo and Saali were after Kurtees and fabric by the yard. I wanted to take some photographs. So while they shopped, I wandered around outside with my camera, and experienced another kind of disorientation which manifested as an inability to see what was around me in aesthetic terms.

While the ladies examined every single article for sale in two stores at this location, I wandered forth and back attempting to see something that wanted to be photographed.
I noticed my attention was drawn to the red cloth hanging above the sidewalk at the end of the block, and came back to it a few times to photograph from different angles.
It seemed as though I had forgotten how to work my camera, and I had a lot of trouble with clipped highlights in the beginning, and then problems with underexposure. I was feeling tired and awake at the same time. I had had no sleep for more than 24 hours, yet here I was in dazzling sunlight somehow simultaneously awake and asleep, bewildered and disoriented. A continual stream of hawkers approached me wanting to sell trinkets of various kinds; obviously I looked like a tourist, and I imagined that I stuck out like a sore thumb. A young man dressed all in white attempted to give me something, but I refused whatever it was. He kept insisting that it was free, that he was a holy man and it was some kind of religious offering, and that it would bring me good luck. But I felt very mistrustful, and too timid to take his photograph.
I never felt unsafe, but began to feel besieged by these fellows. I took another picture of the red cloth, just to try and get myself into the process. As I was reviewing it, a street vendor right next to me (visible at bottom right in the picture above), leaned over to look at the picture as well, and I was suddenly disarmed. Somehow his innocent assumption that I would want to share what I was doing began to open me up, making me feel less afraid.
In the two weeks we were in India, only one person refused to be photographed, and most were keenly curious to see the picture I had just made. When he saw what I was attempting to photograph, he motioned to the vendor at the end of the block, the owner of thee red cloth, and apparently told him to arrange it properly because I was trying to photograph it. I quickly signaled him to leave it as it was, and finally made the following image, which I guess is good enough.

It’s more the way I see things, anyway, a kind of chaotic balance that I find intriguing. I walked back to the store where the ladies were shopping, and took some photos inside the store, still trying to feel comfortable photographing in these unfamiliar surroundings. Here, Saali in a kurtee buying frenzy.

During our outings, Mrs S was frequently on the phone. This I later learned usually meant she was giving instructions to the cook for the next meal, or maybe the one after that. Here, Flo is in the mirror, selecting fabric to make pyjamas, and Mrs S at right, on the phone almost certainly talking about food. Flo is wearing her blue kurtee, which, alternating with her similar red one, was what she wore for the entire trip. Both of us packed all the wrong clothes, and ended up not wearing most of them.

I walked outside again, and noticed for the first time the front window of the store that was currently being emptied of all its kurtees. A very simple window design, with tessellated pavement reflected. Right up my alley.

After this shopping expedition, it was time for lunch. Mrs S took us to Gajalee, a South Indian restaurant. I was convinced that we stopped at the cricket club, but everyone assures me that I’m wrong about that. In any case, the service was somewhat overwhelming, and barely had I popped some morsel into my mouth when a waiter appeared and replaced it with two more. Every time they would bring a new dish, they would offer namaste, usually while I had a mouth full of food and hands covered in curry. I’m a rather messy eater when I use a knife and fork, and it’s perhaps best not to imagine how I cope when eating with my fingers. It’s not a pretty sight, that’s for sure. The food was unlimited in quantity and variety, and, to borrow the favorite superlative of Mrs S, was superb. At lunch we also met Priya, the younger daughter of Mrs S.
I can’t remember what happened during the rest of this first afternoon. I know we made arrangements to spend the next day with Priya, and that at some point we ended up at Chez S. Presumably we had tea, and I seem to remember some discussions about dinner we would have. I also remember going upstairs to our little apartment to “freshen up”. I’m pretty sure the sun was still up at this point. The next 15 or so hours are now stuck in my memory like scenes from a David Lynch movie, in which it’s difficult to discriminate between dream and reality.
The apartment building is architected as a rectangle, as far as I can discern. The narrow side faces the street, and the long side goes back into the property. Running down the length on each floor is a straight corridor, with apartments opening off it. The apartments are large, with multiple bedrooms and bathrooms, and large kitchens. The apartment of Mr and Mrs N seems to occupy the full width at the back of the building, as well as a good proportion of one side. Consequently, this apartment has two entrances. One, the main entrance, is at the end of the corridor, and leads into an entry hall from which you can access the other rooms. The other is located about half way down the corridor, and opens into a large open utility room, which has one wall completely of floor to ceiling windows, and a sliding glass door that opens further onto a large balcony. In this room there is a shrine, a large TV, and some space for ironing. Let’s call it the laundry room. The spare room in which we stayed also opens off this room, with its own locked door. So to get into our room, we had two keys. One opened the door from the corridor into the laundry room, and the other opened the door from the laundry room into the spare room. We were asked to keep both doors locked, which I diligently attempted to honor. Perhaps you are by now wondering why all this detail about rooms and keys. Fear not.
So on this first evening, I took both the keys from Flo, and went up to prepare myself for dinner and more socializing. I had now not slept for perhaps 36 hours, and felt my reserves of energy were very low. I spent some time figuring out how to plug my camera charger into the diabolically designed electrical outlet, and then lay on the bed, just for a minute I swear, and immediately fell into a profound sleep. I think at some point, Flo came in to tell me it was almost time for dinner. I was feeling extremely disoriented, hardly knowing where I was or what time it was, or even what day it was, but felt obliged to go down and make an appearance, and I believe I said I would do so in a few minutes. Flo left me to go back downstairs.
The next thing I remember is someone knocking on the door. I struggled to wake myself, and opened the door to see a man completely unfamiliar to me, who spoke no English. In retrospect, I realize it was a servant of Mr and Mrs N, but at the time I had no clue, other than that he was some member of that household. He never attempted to speak. Instead, he pointed to the outer door, the one that opens onto the corridor, and made a highly articulate mime of unlocking it with a key. This was very confusing to me, because as a member of that household, he could just use their spare key if he wanted to open the door. Did this mean they had no spare key, and yet needed to open the outer door from time to time? What would they do if we were out, and they needed to open it? Did Mrs get it wrong, when she said we should keep both doors locked? Very unlikely, knowing what I know of Mrs S. With these thoughts adding to my state of confusion, and still groggy from sleep, I stumbled over to the outer door, and attempted to open it with the wrong key. Fumbling some more, the servant observing me with that look of pity one reserves for the mentally incompetent, I managed to open it with the other key. I thought what he wanted was just to have the door open, so I showed him it was open, but didn’t open it wide, or look out. I began to stumble back to bed, thinking something had gone wrong with the arrangements regarding the doors and keys. The servant however, opened the door wide, and looked out into the corridor. There was nobody there. He looked at me confusedly, and closed the door again. Since it seemed they wanted it unlocked, I kept the key, and went back to our room, falling asleep again immediately, but filled with anxiety that someone needed to understand there was a serious problem with the arrangements. In my disoriented state, this problem took on epic proportions, but I could not understand how to fix it.
I believe what happened next, was that again I heard a knock at the door. Struggling to my feet, I opened it to see Saali standing there telling me that dinner was being served, or perhaps asking whether I was alright. To me it seemed many hours since I first came upstairs to freshen up. It was quite dark, and I had no idea what time it was. I knew however that I couldn’t pull myself together enough to make conversation, and certainly could not eat anything, so asked her to convey my apologies, and that I was exhausted and needed to sleep. I also tried to make her understand that there was something wrong concerning the key, and that it was very important. It seemed to me that civilizations might fall if it were not sorted out, but I was unable to convey the urgency to her. She left, and I’m sure she gave me the same look I had got from the servant earlier, as though I had taken leave of my senses and would soon be in a mental institution.
Time, apparently, passed. Yet another knock at the door, and there was Flo, with some kind of metal contraption in her hand. Mrs S had become concerned about me not eating, and had sent up some food. There was soup, some fried okra, and chicken sandwiches, all stacked in cleverly nesting metal containers held together by a wire clamp. Apparently, dinner had finished and Flo was coming to bed. I had missed a highly convivial evening with much laughter and happy conversation that she would tell me about in the morning. I made one last, desperate attempt to make known the serious problem regarding the keys and doors, telling Flo that it was really, very important that she understand me, and alert the authorities. But I failed, and she told me, all the while stifling giggles, that it was alright and she would explain in the morning.